For several days before the full moon, Matias had been talking about how important it was to make an offering to Pacha Mama. For those who don't know, Pacha Mama is the earth goddess, worshiped by several cultures across the Andean Altiplano and as far east as the Warani indians of Uruguay and Brazil. Pacha Mama is the earth, the day to day reality in which we live. When we hurt the earth, we're hurting Pacha Mama, our mother. Kind of makes a lot of sense to me, more so that those crazy sky god religions that talk about some old geezer sitting on top of the earth deciding who gets into the great big disneyland in the sky when their number comes up.
Now, after a lot of abuse by the whiteys who came and tried to wipe out Pacha Mama's people, she's kind of pissed. Pacha Mama needed a sacrifice to restore the balance, and this is what Matias was on about. As the moon became fuller in the night sky, he would say the time was approaching, that on the full moon, we should become extremely drunk and throw ourselves into the sea, naked.
Sounds good to me, thought I.
The full moon was scheduled for the Sunday night, which as a school night, didn't look hopeful. Saturday night had been another big Parilla night and everyone was knackered and slunk off early, hoping to avoid being dragged off into some mad fool adventure that would result in a couple of drowned gringos washing up on the beach the next day. Needless to say, I was a little disappointed.
The next day the weather was too rough for Turtle hunting, Pacha Mama wasn't pleased. Our hearts were pure but we needed to cleanse our bodies in the light of the moon. The following day, our last, we were more successful, one turtle in the net and another so close we could smell his cloaca. Triumphant turtle hunters with the smell of algae in our nostrils, we returned to the house to prepare our farewell meal. Things rolled along quite nicely until Steph suggested we play "quarters". I'm sure this game exists in other denominations, but it's fair to say that the coins of the evil empire, which look like they've been punched out of tin foil in someones backyard, are eminently suited to the task.
"Quarters" involves bouncing coins off a table and into a cup. The loser of each round has to scull a beer and on it goes until either the beer runs out or you lose the coins somewhere in the backyard. After the latter, we retired to gaze at the stars and drink the last remaining bottle of beer.
"We're out of beer" said someone with a voice that sounded like mine*
"Well, we'll just have to go and get some more" said a voice that sounded remarkably like Matias's
"Good idea, let's go" came a gringo accent that could only be Steph
So we stumbled off into town, where I caught up with some Artisans who I had bought some precious gifts off earlier that day. One of them looked exactly like Frank Zappa.
"They call me Flaco (skinny) or Frank Zappa" he introduced himself, "but I don't think I look anything like him"
We whiled away an hour or so, slugging beers and cheap red wine while Frank and I kept the aromatic hand rolled cigarettes coming. Then Matias decided it was time.
"It's time" he said.
"For what?" one of us who still had the power of speech asked.
"To make our offering to Pacha Mama" replied Mattias.
"I'm outta here" said Frank, knowing crazy talk when he heard it.
So off we staggered to the beach. When we hit the hard sand, we broke into a jog until we were standing a few meters from the lapping waves. The moon was almost full and was shining brilliantly. The sea was calm and inviting. My head was spinning gently as the world of Pacha Mama spiraled around me.
"Beautiful" I said, and began to strip my clothes off.
"Whoa! Slow down tiger" said Matias, "We have to prepare ourselves first"
So we sat in a circle and drained the remaining beer while Matias waited for the right moment.
"Now is the time" he announced and we got to our feet.
In a flurry of sand and clothes, we were crashing into the waves of the ocean butt naked as the nearly full moon shone down upon us. It was a truly magic moment.
"This is a magic moment" said Matias
We waded around for a period of time, which owing to our inebriated state, could have been anything from 10 minutes to an hour. The water was warm, like the womb (gratuitous hippy inference) and as we stumbled back onto the beach, I felt as if I had been reborn.
As we pulled on our clothes (and I discovered my jocks were missing, taken by the tide) Matias announced it was time for the offering. Above his head he held a tattered pair of reg grundies**. In silence, we watched as he cast them into the ocean.
"For Pacha Mama" he said
"For Pacha Mama" we replied and I meditated on my own offering to the earth goddess.
We stumbled back to the house, stopping along the way to stare at the stars and moon for a while longer before we collapsed into our respective beds.
"This has been the best night ever!" chortled Matias as I bid him goodnight. I was inclined to agree.
*All conversations in this article are translated from Spanglish
** Undergarments, in the peculiar dialect of the Antipodeans